A story about a lake

16 Oct
From Eurovelo2

So we decided to expedite our path through Hungary and hopped a train to lake Balaton as it seems like the next most obvious destination on our path of travel and a large attraction in the country itself. After being told at one train station that it was not possible to take our bikes by train to Zagreb and that there is another station across town where the train leaves for the lake we were informed properly that in fact it was possible to take our bikes beyond the border so we hatched our plan.

On a side note, I would like to personally thank BikeKitchen Budapest at Szimpla Kert (cool bar too) for helping me get my wheels in check and also Berguson Kft. for selling me new hooks for my panniers on short notice.

After busting through traffic on a busy morning, arriving to the station on time and a short 2 and half hour train ride we are told by the conductor that we have arrived. Geared up we make our way and start making our way to the North side of the lake which we are told is the least touristy, pretty and has vineyards. After the initial 10k we start looking for an info kiosk only to discover that it seems nearly most businesses have shuttered their windows and closed for the season. All of them. Gated off campsites, restaurants, cafes, small convenience shops, maybe 1 out of 20 are open.

Optimistically, it means we had the lake to enjoy to ourselves. The catch is that the bike path didn’t run past the water. Since most of the choice property has been co-opted for gated and closed down tourist business (In the grand european tradition of paying for things like walking on a beach or using a toilet) The bike path kept us running against the train tracks for most of the time maybe about a half a kilometer for most of the time with an occasional break in the brushes to catch a glimpse of the sun to reflect off the water. Ok… So we continued making sure to stock up on food at the first market we found. Towards the end of the day we ended up on the peninsula on the lake in a penzion in the town of Tihany, the only space left. Not exaclty the nicest accomodation (Two Stars) but we were grateful to not have to set tent up in the dark.

So far, not too impressed but I’ll have to the second act in another post. For now, we are in Zagreb being hosted by our kind WarmShowers host Drago and dinner is served.


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